Collagen production: L-Ascorbic Acid

Wednesday, 7 May 2008

Overview
- the only useful form of vitamin C in skin care products
- a potent antioxidant proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen 
- strengthens the capillaries and cell walls
- protect both beta-carotene and Vitamin E from oxidation
- easily absorbed by the skin and can stay for up to 72 hours
- is unstable and oxidize rapidly
- not capable of absorbing the sunlight 
- must be used with a sunscreen

Purported skin care benefits when applied topically:
- stimulates collagen synthesis
- accelerates cell renewal
- reduces fine lines and even visibly deep wrinkles
- inhibits melanin 
- reduces melanin oxidation
- helps in skin lightening
- improves radiance and firmness
- clarifies and evens out the skin tone 

Known side effects:
- mild stinging for some when first applied
- may cause irritation if applied too frequently

Products containing this ingredient:
- Skinceuticals Serum 10, 15 & 20
- Skinceuticals Eye Gel

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Gentle skin care: Calendula

Saturday, 3 May 2008

Prelude
Using flowers in skin care is increasingly becoming more common.  In fact, most if not all natural or organic skin care manufacturers these days use extracts taken from fresh flowers as active ingedients in their product range.  Apart from the fact that they are natural ingredients, using flowers in skin care recipes is great because it creates skin care products that smell absolutely delightful as there is nothing more lovely and breathtaking than the scent of fresh flowers.  Calendula, also known as pot marigold is a prime example.

Overview
- contains flavenoids for anti-inflammatory activity
- contains carotenoids with antioxidant properties
- works as an ideal topical agent 
- popular herbal anti-fungal and anti-bacterial remedy
- used in ointments, lotions, infused oils, and body butters
- suitable for eczema, psoriasis, diaper rash, acne and burns
- contains emollient properties
- useful to soften post-surgical scars
- gentle enough for use on baby’s skin

Purported skin care benefits when applied topically:
- promotes skin healing and cell regeneration
- soothes inflamed and irritated skin
- provides antibacterial and antifungal benefits
- rejuvenates, softens and brightens skin
- soothes scalp and combats dandruff

Known side effects
- skin rash, itching, hives and even irregular breathing for some 

Other names
- Calendula officinalis

Products containing this ingredient:
-
Lavera Calendula Skincare Range
- Jurlique Calendula Cream

It should be noted that the golden-orange or yellow fresh flowers of Calendula grows in North America, Europe and Western Asia and has just been selected the 2008 Herb of the Year by the International Herb Association.

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Anti-wrinkle: Alpha Lipoic Acid

Thursday, 1 May 2008

Prelude:
I’ve created a new category labelled as Ingredients101 with the objective to put up brief notes on skin care ingredients that I’ve learnt about. The objective is really to help myself remember them. You see, even though I try to read a bit more about skin care ingredients, I find I usually cannot remember their benefits or worst, get them all confused. Hence, I’ve decided that a better way to aid my memory is to write about them here and hopefully, my readers will also find this useful. But instead of listing them down, I thought it’s easier to digest the information if I write about one ingredient each time.   So here goes my first one about Alpha Lipoic Acid:

Overview:
- antioxidant that helps the body produce energy and regenerate
- endogenous and naturally present in the body
- prevent abnormal sugar-to-protein glycation
- both water and fat soluble so it can permeate all parts of a cell
- prevent cell damage 
- neutralize free radicals

Purported skin care benefits when applied topically:
- fights future skin damage
- repairs past skin damage
- diminishes fine lines
- gives skin a healthy glow
- removes certain types of scars
- provides moderate anti-inflammatory effects
- boosts levels of other antioxidants, such as vitamin C and E
- less irritating than other types of wrinkle fighters

Purported skin care benefits when taken orally:
- prevent cellular damage via its antioxidant properties

Known side effects:
- may cause skin rash for some when ingested orally
- may burn skin in high concentrations

Other names:
- A-lipoic acid
- 5-(Dithiolan-3-yl)Valeric acid
- 1,2-Dithiolane-3-Pentanoic acid

Products containing this ingredient:
- A’kin day and night creams

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