Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: a stable vitamin C

I’m a bit carried away by a new vitamin C eye gel that I’m testing since last Thursday. I know…it’s less than a week and I’m already so excited. It’s definitely not a placebo effect because I’m quite cynical regarding products formulated for the eye area. But nevertheless, I will give it another week or so before reviewing the product officially. Today, I want to discuss one of the ingredients in the product and that is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, which is a relatively new derivative of Vitamin C.

Vitamin C is a great antioxidant
Vitamin C, as you know, is a good antioxidant that protects the cells of the skin from oxidizing agents and radicals. It is capable of suppressing the pigmentation of the skin and decomposing melanin. So many products include vitamin C as a skin lightener too. Vitamin C also helps to improve skin’s elasticity as it promotes the formation of collagen.

Different types of vitamin C
I love using products containing vitamin C and more than two years back, I wrote an entry examining the different types of Vitamin C in skin care products.  Amongst the list, the one I use most frequently is L-Ascorbic acid and I’ve even used it to make my own DIY vitamin C serum.  However, while L-Ascorbic Acid is known to be the only natural form of Vitamin C in skin care products, it is  also the most unstable as it oxidize rapidly and this ingredient can also be irritating to those with sensitive skin.

Activation only upon penetration
I learnt that Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a new vitamin C derivative that is both an effective antioxidant and collagen stimulator. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is stable as it is converted to free vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin only upon penetration. Hence, this ingredient can be used in a wide range of formulations without worries of oxidation. It therefore represents a stable precursor of vitamin C that ensures a constant delivery of vitamin C into the skin. In addition, I understand that this ingredient is safe to use and does not irritate most skin types.

Helps in the treatment of acne
More interestingly, in vivo studies done, formulations with the ingredient significantly prevent the UVA-induced sebum oxidation up to 40%.  The ingredient also proved to be efficient in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris.

Concentration of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in formulations
The final concentration of sodium ascorbyl phosphate in end-use products could be up to 5% depending on the application, but is typically 0.01 to 0.1% in most preparations.

Sources of info: International Journal of Cosmetic Science

So any of you come across Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate? If so, do share your experience.

Comments

  1. pf1123 says:

    Wow…nice nice! I’m curious about this product. Do they have a face serum/gel?

    I’m getting my worst break out for the past 2 years. My skin is quite congested. ?

  2. Vivi says:

    Hi Sesame,

    I can’t wait to read your review on the product :). Btw, are you still using Vitamin C powder from Marie Veronique?

  3. Johnny says:

    Great info !!! love it … hmmm im goona look for tis ingredient when purchasing skin care products. YOU ARE THE BEST !!!

  4. sesame says:

    Yes, they do. Both products come with Vitamin C and Vitamin A. So I’m just trying out the eye gel.

    Your skin is breaking out? Did you go back to using Istrilene? I remember it helped your skin in the past.

  5. sesame says:

    I finished the bottle and didn’t replenish. It was good in terms of effects but I just didn’t like the powdery residue.

  6. sesame says:

    You’re welcome Johnny! ?

  7. Soos says:

    Re: post 4. – ???

    Back on topic: I received an email about this product: http://www.dgskincare.com/productingredients.cfm?SKU=DA502210&cid=1&rid= It caught my eye because a selling point was “multiple forms of Vitamin C” specifically 3 types. It took some clicking to find the specific info, but it does list the 3 forms. As far as price – YIKES!

    Looking at another product on this site: http://www.dgskincare.com/productingredients.cfm?SKU=DA502210&cid=1&rid= makes me wonder – OK, sorry, but I’m OT again – is there such a thing as too much exfoliation? This product is touted as a DAILY face peel! I ask bcs I use a cleanser that seems to have a negative effect if I leave it on too long. By this I mean it seems to aggravate my skin and promotes the spread of blemishes rather than diminishing them if I don’t rinse it off immediately. Apologies…

  8. Joey says:

    Hey sesame,
    Thanks for the info! Just realize the Sanctum Hy C Recovery Serum I brought in is with this vit C. Good to know that its with good qualities. Gonna start using it soon and see how it goes! You might wish to check it out too! ?

  9. sesame says:

    Wow, 3 types of vitamin C in one product! That’s really potent. No wonder the price. ?

    Agree that daily peeling is too much. Some doctors, derms and beauty experts believe in exfoliation to remove the dead skin. Short term, you get beautiful skin but it could cause long term problems. You’re right that it’ll aggravate the skin. Some skin types can take more exfoliation but not all.

    Btw, that comment was a spam and has been deleted.

  10. sesame says:

    Oh you’ve brought in Sanctum? That’s great. I shall take a look over the weekend.

  11. pf1123 says:

    My breakout is not those acne type. Its a lot of whiteheads, making my chin and jaw line very congested. And I have cystic acne under my jaw. I don’t know what’s up with that….

    I might go see a derm again.

  12. Soos says:

    Thanks, sesame, for confirming my thoughts. No matter what the “recommendations for use” may be, everyone’s skin is different, so how much, how often and in what order we use products is a big ole EXPERIMENT. I do know you should not use exfoliants only at night, to give the dermis time to recover and not be so “exposed”, and wash with gentler products in the am. So, I am still experimenting with things that will help me clear up this hormonal acne on my chin, and clogged pores elsewhere. sigh. I am seeing some improvement, though! I am eating a lot more vegetables and have discovered that many of the spices used in Indian cooking are good for facial skin – turmeric, cardamom. They use a lot of lemon and lime, so I will take a lot of my vitamin C that way instead of topically. And with that, I have managed to get back on topic!

  13. Soos says:

    I meant you should exfoliate only at night!

  14. sesame says:

    Could it be something you’re using? Cystic acne is usually a problem with internal issues for example.

  15. sesame says:

    Oh yes, the Indian spices are good for our skin. In fact, some of the derms are suggesting we eat them.

    I’m also experimenting and learning. Good thing that with this blog, I can lots of different inputs from people like you and I can pick up more tips. ?

  16. ada says:

    sodium ascorbyl phosphate is really good cos i used a product containing it nd it helped clear pimple nd spots on my face. The soap is fair and white exfoliating soap with pure vitamin c. You can try it nd see

  17. mangomadness says:

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is in the Made Hippie Vitamin C Serum I’m researching for use in fading my hyperpigmentation. I’m glad it’s a stable vitamin C derivative and also helps with acne — another skin issue I have.

    Thanks for this post!

Leave a Reply